The Canyon Clay Bandana is a lightweight knitted accessory designed for warm-weather wear. Worked in sport-weight cotton yarn, this triangular bandana combines a simple construction with a decorative staggered eyelet stitch pattern. The finished piece has a clean i-cord border around the edges and two long i-cord ties, giving the bandana a neat appearance while making it practical to wear and adjust.
This knitting project is worked back and forth, beginning at the bottom point of the triangle and gradually increasing toward the upper edge. The construction is straightforward once the increase pattern is understood, making it a useful project for knitters who want to practice yarnovers, decreases, i-cord techniques, and careful stitch counting in one small accessory.
The pattern uses Drops Safran in the color red clay (uni color 59), a sport-weight cotton yarn, together with 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles. The bandana itself is worked flat, while a pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs is used for the i-cord ties.
Project at a Glance
The Canyon Clay Bandana is a one-size design. Its construction starts with only four stitches at the bottom point. In the set-up section, increases are gradually introduced before the main staggered eyelet pattern begins. Once the main pattern is established, the triangle continues to grow through increases on the right side.
- Size: One size
- Finished length without ties: 42cm/ 16.5in.
- Finished height: 22cm/ 8.75in.
- Gauge: 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) = 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette stitch after blocking
- Yarn: Drops Safran in the color red clay (uni color 59), 1 ball
- Main needles: 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles
- Tie needles: A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs
- Notions: Tapestry needle, measuring tape, and scissors
Understanding the Construction
Before beginning, it helps to understand how the entire bandana is assembled. The main triangular section is knitted first. It starts at the bottom and increases as you work upward. The first and last two stitches of every row create the i-cord edging. These edge stitches are treated differently from the central stitches, so they should not be tightened.
After the triangular section reaches the desired length, the yarn is broken, leaving a 10cm (4″) tail, and the live stitches remain on the needle. The first i-cord tie is then knitted separately. Once the tie reaches approximately 30 cm, it is connected directly to the live stitches of the bandana.
The i-cord edging is built across the live bandana stitches using k2 and ssk. This process creates the finished edge while joining the first tie to the bandana. When only three stitches remain, the second i-cord tie is worked. The second tie is approximately 30 cm long before binding off.
Materials and Tools
Yarn
The original pattern calls for Drops Safran in the color red clay (uni color 59), using one ball. This yarn choice gives the accessory its warm clay-inspired appearance and provides the lightweight cotton character appropriate for a summer bandana.
Because the pattern specifies one ball, it is important to keep the yarn requirement in mind when planning the project. If substituting yarn, matching the original gauge and the general characteristics of the specified yarn is important for keeping the finished dimensions close to the stated measurements.
Knitting Needles
The bandana is knitted with 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles. A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs is used for the i-cord ties.
Notions
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
Knitting Abbreviations
The following abbreviations are used throughout the pattern. Becoming familiar with them before starting will make the instructions easier to follow.
- k – knit.
- k2tog – knit 2 stitches together.
- p – purl.
- RS – right side.
- sl – slip stitch as if to purl with yarn in front.
- ssk – slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, return the 2 stitches back to the left needle, knit those 2 stitches together through the back loops.
- WS – wrong side.
- yo – yarn over.
- *-* – repeat the instructions in between the asterisks the number of times specified.
The Important I-Cord Edge Rule
The first two stitches and last two stitches of every row form the i-cord edging. On each row, the first two stitches are knitted, while the final two stitches are slipped as if to purl with yarn in front.
One detail is especially important: do not tighten the edge stitches. The i-cord effect depends on these stitches being worked consistently and comfortably. Pulling them too tightly can make the edge behave differently from the intended construction.
Before You Begin the Triangle
The bandana begins with four stitches. The set-up rows establish the initial triangular shape and introduce the increases that will later continue throughout the main pattern.
Keep the distinction between right-side and wrong-side rows in mind. The right-side rows contain the increases and shaping, while the wrong-side rows are mainly worked with purl stitches between the two i-cord edge sections.
Stitch counts are included at several points in the set-up section. These counts are useful checkpoints. If your stitch count does not match the stated number at the end of an increase row, it is worth checking the previous row before continuing.
Set-Up Rows
Starting the Bandana
Cast on 4 stitches.
Work the following set-up rows exactly as written:
- Row 1 (WS): k2, sl2.
- Row 2 (RS): k2, yo, sl2 (5sts).
- Row 3: k2, p1, sl2.
- Row 4: k2, yo, k1, yo, sl2 (7sts).
- Row 5: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
- Row 6: k2, yo, k3, yo, sl2 (9sts).
- Row 7: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
- Row 8: k2, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, sl2 (11sts).
- Row 9: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
- Row 10: k2, yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, sl2 (13sts).
- Row 11: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
The increasing stitch counts are important checkpoints in this opening section: 5 stitches after Row 2, 7 stitches after Row 4, 9 stitches after Row 6, 11 stitches after Row 8, and 13 stitches after Row 10.
Working the Staggered Eyelet Pattern
After the set-up rows, the main pattern begins. This is where the decorative staggered eyelet texture becomes established. The design combines yarnovers with right-leaning decreases to create openings while continuing the triangular shaping.
The central eyelet sequence should be read carefully. The asterisks indicate the section that is repeated across the row. Keeping track of the two edge stitches at each side makes the structure much easier to understand.
Pattern Rows
- Row 1 (RS): k2, yo, k1, *k2tog, yo, k2* to last 2 sts, yo, sl2 (2 sts increased).
- Row 2 (WS): k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
- Row 3: k2, yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, sl2 (2 sts increased).
- Row 4: k2, p to last 2 sts, sl2.
Repeat rows 1-4 16 more times or until you reach your desired length.
This four-row sequence is the central repeating unit of the bandana. Rows 1 and 3 increase the width, while Rows 2 and 4 provide the wrong-side return. The repeated yarnovers and decreases produce the eyelet design across the growing triangle.
Keeping Track of the Eyelet Rows
When working the main section, it can be useful to pause at the end of each four-row repeat. Rather than trying to remember where you are in a long sequence, identify the current row as Row 1, Row 2, Row 3, or Row 4 of the pattern repeat.
Another useful checkpoint is the instruction on the right-side increase rows. Both Row 1 and Row 3 state that 2 sts increased. If the number of stitches does not increase as expected, stop and check the yarnovers and decreases before proceeding.
On the wrong-side rows, remember that the instruction is to knit the first two stitches, purl to the last two stitches, and slip the final two stitches with yarn in front. The edge stitches remain separate from the main purl section.
Finishing the Main Triangle
Continue the pattern rows for the required number of repeats or until the desired length is reached. The original instructions specify repeating Rows 1-4 16 more times or working until you reach your desired length.
When the triangular bandana section is complete, break the yarn, leaving a 10cm (4″) long tail. Set the bandana aside while leaving the stitches on the needle as is. The live stitches are needed for the next construction stage, so do not bind them off.
Making the First I-Cord Tie
The first tie is made separately before being joined to the live bandana stitches. Use the 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs for this part.
Cast on 3 stitches, do not turn.
Then work the following sequence:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue knitting the i-cord until the tube measures approximately 30 cm. Do not cut the yarn.
The instruction not to turn is essential to the i-cord construction. Instead of turning the work after knitting across the three stitches, the stitches are moved to the other side of the needle and knitted again. This produces the characteristic narrow knitted tube.
Connecting the First Tie to the Bandana
Once the first i-cord tie has reached approximately 30 cm, the tie is connected to the bandana. At this stage, the live bandana stitches should still be held on the needle.
Transfer the 3 i-cord stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Next, knit the first two i-cord stitches. Then work an ssk, knitting the last i-cord stitch together with the first bandana stitch.
This is the point where the separate tie becomes part of the bandana’s finished edge. The ssk joins one stitch from the i-cord with one live stitch from the bandana.
Building the I-Cord Edging
After the first joining step, transfer the first three stitches to the needle while holding the live bandana stitches.
Repeat the following sequence:
*k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches to the needle, holding the live bandana stitches*
Continue repeating the sequence until you have 3 stitches left.
This process creates the i-cord edging across the bandana. The repeated ssk joins the edging to successive live stitches while the three-stitch i-cord structure moves along the edge.
Creating the Second I-Cord Tie
When only three stitches remain, the second tie is worked using the same basic i-cord method as the first tie.
Work the second i-cord tie as follows:
*Slip the 3 stitches to the right side of the needle. Knit 3.*
Continue until the i-cord tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Unlike the first tie, this time the work is finished by binding off. After binding off, cut the yarn and weave in the tails.
Practical Tips for a Neat Result
Watch the Edge Stitches
The two edge stitches on each side are a defining part of the finished bandana. Knit the first two stitches and slip the last two stitches with yarn in front as instructed. Avoid pulling these stitches excessively tight.
Use the Stitch Counts as Checkpoints
The set-up rows provide several clear stitch-count checkpoints. These are particularly useful when learning the construction. If a stated stitch count does not match your work, correcting the issue immediately is easier than trying to locate an error many rows later.
Keep Yarnovers Consistent
The eyelet design depends on yarnovers being worked in the specified positions. When working a yo, make sure the yarn is positioned correctly before continuing with the next stitch. Consistent yarnovers help the decorative openings remain even across the bandana.
Do Not Lose the Live Stitches
At the end of the triangular section, the pattern specifically instructs you to leave the stitches on the needle. These live stitches are required for attaching the i-cord edging, so they should remain safely held until the edging process begins.
Measure the Ties
Both i-cord ties are worked to approximately 30 cm. Use a measuring tape rather than relying only on visual estimation. This helps keep the two ties balanced in length.
Blocking and Finished Measurements
The specified gauge is 24 stitches x 32 rows in stockinette stitch over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) after blocking. The finished measurements are 42cm/ 16.5in. in length without ties and 22cm/ 8.75in. in height.
Because the gauge is specified after blocking, blocking is part of the reference for the finished fabric measurement. If you are checking gauge before beginning, keep in mind that the official gauge refers to the blocked fabric.
The triangle can also be modified in size according to the original pattern instructions. The design notes that you can easily modify the size by adding or subtracting repeats. The pattern specifically says to repeat Rows 1-4 16 more times or continue until you reach your desired length.
Troubleshooting Common Construction Points
The Stitch Count Is Wrong
First, return to the most recent increase row and check every yarnover and decrease. The right-side increase rows each state that two stitches are increased. Also verify that the two edge stitches at both ends of the row were handled correctly.
The Edge Looks Too Tight
Review the i-cord edge instruction: knit the first two stitches, slip the last two stitches with yarn in front, and do not tighten the edge stitches. Relaxing the edge tension can help maintain the intended i-cord appearance.
The Eyelets Do Not Look Even
Check the placement of the yarnovers and k2tog instructions in Pattern Row 1. The staggered eyelet effect comes from the relationship between these stitches, so accidentally skipping or moving a yo or decrease can change the appearance of the motif.
The I-Cord Tie Does Not Look Like a Tube
Remember that an i-cord is not turned in the usual way. After knitting the three stitches, slip the three stitches to the right side of the needle and knit them again. The repeated movement creates the narrow tube.
The First Tie Cannot Be Attached
Make sure the live bandana stitches were left on the needle after completing the triangular section. The first tie is joined by transferring the three i-cord stitches to the needle and then working the ssk with the last i-cord stitch and the first bandana stitch.
Quick Pattern Reference
- Cast on: 4 stitches.
- Set-up: Rows 1-11.
- First set-up checkpoint: 5sts after Row 2.
- Second set-up checkpoint: 7sts after Row 4.
- Third set-up checkpoint: 9sts after Row 6.
- Fourth set-up checkpoint: 11sts after Row 8.
- Fifth set-up checkpoint: 13sts after Row 10.
- Main pattern: Rows 1-4.
- Main repeat: Repeat rows 1-4 16 more times or until desired length.
- Yarn tail after triangle: 10cm (4″).
- First i-cord: 3 stitches, approximately 30 cm.
- I-cord edging: k2, ssk, transfer 3 stitches, repeated until 3 stitches remain.
- Second i-cord: 3 stitches, approximately 30 cm.
- Finished length without ties: 42cm/ 16.5in.
- Finished height: 22cm/ 8.75in.
Final Finishing Checklist
Before considering the project complete, check the following details:
- The triangular bandana has been worked to the desired length.
- The first and last two stitches have been maintained as the i-cord edging.
- The edge stitches were not tightened excessively.
- The yarn was broken after the main bandana section with a 10cm (4″) tail.
- The live bandana stitches were kept on the needle.
- The first i-cord tie measures approximately 30 cm.
- The first tie has been joined to the live stitches using the specified ssk construction.
- The i-cord edging has been continued until three stitches remain.
- The second i-cord tie measures approximately 30 cm.
- The second tie has been bound off.
- The yarn tails have been woven in.
- The finished measurements can be checked after blocking.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size is the Canyon Clay Bandana?
The pattern is written as one size. The finished measurements are 42cm/ 16.5in. in length without ties and 22cm/ 8.75in. in height.
What yarn does the pattern use?
The original pattern uses Drops Safran in the color red clay (uni color 59), with one ball required.
What knitting needles are required?
The main bandana uses 3mm (US 2.5) knitting needles. A pair of 3mm (US 2.5) DPNs is used for the ties.
What is the gauge?
The gauge is 24 stitches x 32 rows in stockinette stitch over 10 x 10 cm (4x4in) after blocking.
Can the bandana be made larger or smaller?
Yes. The pattern notes that the size can be modified by adding or subtracting repeats. The main pattern is repeated for 16 more times or until the desired length is reached.
How long are the i-cord ties?
Each tie is worked until the tube measures approximately 30 cm.
Why does the pattern use i-cord edging?
The i-cord edging gives the bandana a neat finish and helps prevent the edges from curling. The same i-cord technique is also used to create the ties.
Should the bandana stitches be bound off before making the first tie?
No. The instructions specifically say to leave the stitches on the needle as is after breaking the yarn. These live stitches are then incorporated into the i-cord edging.
Enjoy the Finished Canyon Clay Bandana
The Canyon Clay Bandana is a compact knitting project that brings together several useful techniques in a practical summer accessory. The triangle grows from just four stitches, the staggered eyelet stitch adds visual interest, and the i-cord construction gives the finished piece a polished edge and functional ties.
The most important part of working this pattern successfully is maintaining the technical details exactly as written. Pay attention to the stitch counts during the set-up rows, keep the two-stitch i-cord edging consistent, follow the yarnovers and decreases in the main pattern, and preserve the live stitches for the edging stage.
Once the triangle is complete, the i-cord ties and edging turn the knitted fabric into the finished wearable accessory. Measuring the ties carefully and keeping the edging relaxed will help preserve the clean construction that defines this design.
With its red clay color, lightweight cotton yarn, decorative eyelets, triangular silhouette, and simple tie construction, the Canyon Clay Bandana makes a versatile handmade accessory for warm-weather outfits. It is also a useful project for practicing increases, yarnovers, decreases, i-cord techniques, and neat finishing in a relatively small piece.